Saturday, June 9, 2012
The final Post
Thursday, June 7, 2012
The next to last blog entry
I am on a grand three day push to get home and Motel 6 is my
savior. Today I covered an enormous amount of territory by going from Gillette,
SD up to Devils Tower, then down to scenic Spearfish Canyon in the Black Hills to
Mount Rushmore. After a short lunch stop there I traveled to Rapid City and
then on Route 44 through some of the last existing real prairie lands still in
the US over to the Badlands. I drove part of the loop road and then headed
north to Wall, SD, home of the famous Wall Drug. Too kitschy for me but I did
get my 5 cent cup of coffee and then drove another 200 plus miles to Mitchell,
SD. I hope to be able to do 500 miles
per day for the next three days to end the trip.
There are a few good shots still in my camera that I will
download as my last blog entry.
My trip summation is that this is one heck of an immense
country that is truly beautiful in so many ways. I would like to have just a
penny for every fence post I encountered, especially the wooden ones. All of
those post holes amazes me! They make some mean snow fences out here also.
But then the US I saw was very much of a “Don’t fence me in”
kind of place. Wide expanses of desert, mountains, valleys, plateaus, farm land,
range land. You can see the stars at night and most of the air is not polluted.
This land is full of hard working farmers and ranchers.
The National Park Service does a magnificent job with a
shrinking budget but an increase in tourism. They are the keeper of the country’s
real wealth, its scenic beauty.
I want to thank my can of Bear Spray for allowing me to hike
alone in bear country but I am sure it gave me a false sense of security. They say
don’t run when you see a bear. Hah!
My Prius has been one slam dunk of a fine car. I averaged 49
mpg, fully loaded and doing flat and mountain roads.
The trip allowed me to hear and see nature and view
wildlife, birds and flora and fauna that I had never experienced before.
I appreciate all the phone calls and email contacts from my friends
along the way. They kept my spirit up. And especially want to thank all my
benefactors who helped out with the trip. Without you it would have been very
rough!
Motel 6 is a great low cost motel chain that has been around
for 50 years. Bed, bath and internet. No tissues, radio, or blow-dryer but who
cares! Clean and adequate and perfectly spaced for mo purposes on the way home!
The western part of the country has great roads and they
seen to have gotten all of the Recovery Act money to put into their roads. Really
on the ball with projects funded and in the works.
Benjamin F. Richason PHD was my geography professor and I
have him to thank for grounding me in geology, geography and physiography so
that I could better understand the landscape through which I was travelling.
All this some 45 years ago!
AAA maps are spot on with their green dotted scenic routes
and their regional as well as state maps.
My trusted Garmin Nuvi 200 guided me the whole way and made
it so easy for a single driver to negotiate the US road system. Without “Lorraine”
talking to me it would have been so difficult to navigate alone.
With the exception of hay fever in Kentucky I have stayed in
good health. Being out of doors 24/7 for weeks at a time is a nice thing but it
wears thin after a while and I feel very weary. Not tired of what I am seeing,
as that is exciting but bone weary from the stress of dealing with the everyday
living in a tent and everything that that implies. I loved seeing the wild
lupines blooming in Sequoia. As I moved along with spring I kept seeing wild
lupines and when I crossed the Bighorns yesterday, I ran into lupines blooming
again and all I could think was “those freaking things again.” So I knew it was
indeed time to head home. I will miss the Frank Lloyd Wright designed buildings
I had planned to see outside of Chicago but I can see them when I go out for my
50th college reunion.
I will be coming home to one less cat, as my beloved Lynx (a
lynx point Siamese) escaped from the sitters about a week after I left and has
not been seen since. I dream that he will have made his way to Manchester and
is sleeping on the chair cushion of my porch furniture. He used to take week
long walk abouts and find his way back looking very healthy and never hungry,
so I am hopeful that something of the kind has happened.
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
Yowee Yellowstone
Just when I had thought Yosemite beat everything, I saw the
Grand Tetons and now Yellowstone. Each
is so spectacular in different ways.
Yellowstone Park is basically a huge caldera from an ancient
volcano (640,000 years ago) and my campsite was near the western rim of the
caldera. The whole park is still an active “Hotspot” as evidenced by all the
geysers, hot springs, fumaroles, mud pots and travertine terraces. There are lush green valleys with winding
streams, waterfalls, and some raging rivers full of spring runoff. The 1988
forest fire devastated great swaths of the park, but after 24 years the trees
have reforested themselves and are standing 20-30 feet already.
In one area there were some local earth quakes. The trees
withstood the earth quake but then the ground heated up so much that the trees
died from the ground temps. As you drive along you can see things steaming or
blurping or hissing or rumbling. Some of the features have wonderful colors as
certain algae thrive in the fuming waters, so the palette of colors is amazing.
Mammoth Hot Springs, with its travertine terraces, was the only bummer as the
day I was there only 2 little streams were running and all the other terraces and
features were dry.
I have seen bison everywhere and when they get on the road,
major traffic jams occur as the animals don’t seem to mind cars. I also saw a
coyote trotting next to the road. One bison crossed a wide trout stream and
scared some fishermen and then decided to chomp on grass in the
mid strip in a parking lot. A Bull Moose created a huge traffic jam as a bus
even stopped for photo ops. I have also seen the aftermath of two major car
accidents and this is only June. I cannot imagine how crazy the place must be
in summer.
I carry my canister of bear spray, which is only good for
one shot. The first day in the park I hiked out 5 miles to a remote geyser. It
erupted right on schedule and I was very privileged to have been there for the
eruption. They say there are over 10,000 hotspot features and I think I did a
good job of covering many! Spent several days hiking at every spot marked on
the maps.
The rules about the bears are crazy. These bears do not know
what coolers are or break into cars to get to coolers. So instructions are to
keep all food, coolers, cooking utensils, stoves, water, and personal care
products in your car. We had rain and thunderstorms on and off all week and
then snow yesterday. What are you supposed to do about cooking if it is raining
and they don’t provide shelters? They also would not let you pour any dish
water on the ground. You had to wash dishes in a community sink with cold
water.
The park now does a good job of providing boardwalks and
paths to keep tourists off the sometimes thin crust surrounding some of the
features. My mother’s brother was killed at Yellowstone as a young boy by
falling into something. My mother was born in 1910 and both her brothers were
younger than she. One was blind and hit by a car and died and the other one was
killed at Yellowstone. In the old pictures on display, you can see people standing
up close to things erupting. Gerald Ford was also a park ranger there in the 30’s.
The drive over the Bighorn Mountains on my way to S Dakota was
very interesting. The Bighorn Forest Service has posted signs
describing the age and names of the strata through which I was traveling. The foothills were really old stuff but very
interesting to look at. Finally out of the Rockies I was back to beef and
irrigated fields and that is when I put a CD in! I hope to make Devils Tower
and Mt Rushmore tomorrow and then on to Wall and the Badlands.
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